Schwäbisch Hall: Why Have Travellers Not Heard of This Town Yet?
Small Town Wonders #1: Schwäbisch Hall, Germany
- Are you interested in medieval architecture and history in general? Go.
- Are you interested in art? Most museums are for free. Go.
- Are you interested in good instagram pictures? Go.
Ah, just go. It’s beautiful.
- Marvel at the cute half-timbered houses from medieval times.
- Throughout the year, there are many events happening on the market square.
- In summer, relax on the banks of the river “Kocher”.
- In winter, there is a cosy Christmas market on the market square.
The Market Square
Start your exploration at the market square ☆ ☆ ☆. The houses surrounding the “Hafenmarkt” are from the Renaissance era, or (if burnt down in urban fires) rebuilt in baroque style. On the square, you can find a café, a restaurant, some shops, and an old fish fountain, which served as a fish tank back in the days, as well as the baroque town hall (1735, rebuilt after the 2nd world war).
Prominent is the steep perron, leading up to St. Michael’s church.
Climb it, if only for some exercise!
Saint Michael
Hovering over the square is Saint Michael. St. Michael’s church ☆ is quite a big, protestant, roman-gothic church with a beautiful wooden organ. The nave is dominated by pillars too big for its inside. You can have a look inside or skip it, but — do climb up the church spire ☆ ☆ ☆. It‘s an easy climb, also manageable for those of you who are afraid of heights, as the stairs are almost completely enclosed and only a few tiny windows remind you that you are walking up a tower. Be aware of the church bells’ chimes. We thought we will stumble backwards when they started ringing next to us. On the top, you’ll be rewarded with a good view of Schwäbisch Hall.
Exploring the church is for free, but they ask for some small donation if you decide to climb the tower.
A Stroll through the Centre
The old town is very picturesque ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆. Take some time to explore the cobblestone alleyways, the narrow stairways leading down to the valley of the river “Kocher” and relish the feeling of being sent back in time while looking at the beautiful half-timbered houses.
A great deal of the Schwäbisch Hall was built in the Middle Ages, since the citizens got rich through salt mining and salt trade. The town used to have a town wall and there are several fortification towers still standing. You can find an overview of these towers here. If you enter the market square from above, you might very likely walk through one of the remaining towers that formed part of the wall — the “Langenfelder Tor”.
In the street below the market square (“Hafenmarkt”) you will find the tourist information and a modern art gallery opposite the tourist information, with changing exhibitions, free entry, and free toilets.
In the short shopping street “Neue Straße” (New Street) as well as in the adjoining lanes you can see typical German small and big town shops such as H&M, Orsay, Müller, Bijou Brigitte, the bookstore Osiander etc., cafés, bakeries, and kebab stalls.
At the end of the “Neue Straße” the “Henkersbrücke” awaits you— the hangman’s bridge. The executioner of the day used to encash a toll for crossing. Where once you could find his notorious hut, today, you will see a small pavilion with Swabian puppets inside. Throw your toll inside the pavilion and you’ll see them perform — in Swabian dialect.
The Arts Parts of Town
The other side of the river offers fewer cafés and shops, but is the artistic part of town. You can find two art museums by Würth, an art gallery, and two cinemas here.
- The “Johanniter Kirche” — a Gothic church with beautiful old timber-work displayed in the open roof truss, not used for religious purposes anymore, but as an art gallery, exhibiting paintings by the old masters. Only go, if you are sincerely interested in art history. Quick self-check: Cranach? Riemenschneider? Holbein? Doesn’t ring a bell. Skip the museum. Is it cold outside? Visit the museum ☆ ☆. Admission is free — and, hey, you might learn something.
- The “Kunsthalle Würth” ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆. This is the famous art hall of Schwäbisch Hall. Really cool changing exhibition with famous modern artists. Admission is free.
- Can’t get enough of art? There is also the art gallery, Cyprian Brenner on this side of the river.
- The cinema “Kino im Schafstall” screens films in their original language with German subtitles.
- The cinema “Kino Hall” shows movies in German, but surprises with further shows like operas (also in English), or ballet performances.
Or you could simply walk along the riverside and cross back via the small red wooden bride “Roter Steg” ☆ ☆.
The River Islands
The medieval bridge leads you onto the first island in the Kocher River where, in summer, you can relax in the beer garden “Unterwöhrd” and your kids can exhaust themselves in the playground. The next island “Grasbrödele” ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ is Schwäbisch Hall’s famous picture vantage point. From here, insta pics such as this can be taken:
The “Grasbrödele” also hosts various events and festivals throughout summer.
Other Museums
- The “Hällisch Frankisches Museum” ☆ ☆ ☆: It’s worth a visit for all you who are interested in the history of Schwäbisch Hall from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. A cool miniature model of the town shows how Schwäbisch Hall has expanded over the years. You will also see some instruments of torture, a baroque hall, picturesque shooting targets, and wigs to try on. The entry is free.
Food
Where to Eat and Drink
Schwäbisch Hall offers quite an array of cafés, bars, and restaurants, so it’s not easy to pick one. Most of them look inviting and cozy. Here is a selection:
- Restaurant Entenbäck: regional German food; medium price range.
- Brauereiauschank Löwen: Swabian brewery, Swabian food; medium price range.
- Big Russel: regional fast food; also for budget travellers.
- Haller Kebab: decent Yufka, people were queueing for it.
- Teecafé blau’sch: traditionally decorated café, cosy atmosphere. You can also get breakfasts here.
- Café am Markt: overlooking the market square; inside and outside seating; nice cakes.
- Olli’s Bar: you will be served awesome yummy cocktails and other drinks. The bartenders are well trained, and the guests are from all walks of life. Cocktails cost around 8 €.
Typical Swabian Food
- Butterbretzel (You can find this pretzel in any bakery, if they haven’t been prepared with butter yet, just ask, they will always make it on the spot for you.)
- Flädlesuppe (This starter is a soup made of left-over pancakes (nothing goes to waste in Swabia!) which are chopped into thin pieces and boiled in a clear broth.)
- Maultaschen (Dumplings, traditionally filled with pork, in a clear broth.)
- Spätzle mit Soß’ or Kässpätzle (Thick Swabian pasta swimming in a dark sauce or covered with lots of cheese.)
- Linsen mit Spätzle und Saitenwürstle (Lentils with thick Swabian pasta, sausages, and mustard.)
- Kartoffelsalat (A potato salad with oil and vinegar that serves as a starter or side dish.)
Fun Things to Do
- Rent a rowing boat in summer and row up and down the Kocher. 1/2h: 5,50 €
- Partake in the “Nachtwächterführung” — the night-watchman’s tour. Public night-watchman’s tours are available every 1st Saturday of the month from Oct.-March at 7pm. Starting point: Hafenmarkt 3. Language: German. If you are a group of people, there are also special offers in English.
- Check out the “Solebad”. Do you remember that Schwäbisch Hall used to be a salt trading town? The “salt pool” still pays homage to this time in history. It’s a therapeutic bath with a salt grotto and sauna/spa area (be warned — sauna in Germany means no swimming suits allowed!). Prices start from 11,50 € for 3 h. Information in German is available here.
Language
The Swabian Dialect
Hi means — Hoi.
No means — Ha noi. (No, Swabian and Vietnamese are not related!)
Yes means — (Please grunt and nod your head simultaneously.)
You are in disbelieve? — Ha, sooo ebbes!
Got it? Congratulations — you just passed A1 in Swabian. (If it gets more complicated, use English — just prepare yourself for: Ha, sooo ebbes!)
Opening Times
- Shops are closed on Sundays.
- Many cafés and bakeries are closed on Sundays or have restrictred opening hours.
- Most museums are closed on Mondays.
- The best visiting time is from Tuesday to Saturday.
The Toilet-Hunt
Toilets are free in all museums and galleries. Just pretend you are interested in visiting.
Parking
Parking inside and near the town centre costs a parking fee.
We parked our car in the “Schillerstraße” and walked to the centre (5 min, downhill, 10 -15 min. uphill).
Accommodation
The hotel prices are not for budget travellers. There are no airbnbs. But there is a youth hostel and a camping ground.
If you come by car, you can stay in the suburbs of Schwäbisch Hall, e.g. at the Smartino hotel.
What We Didn’t Check Out, but Sounds Cool
- “Großcomburg”: Once used as a monastery, you can visit the grounds and the church with a guide in summer. In winter, you have to book the guide in advance.
- “Hohenloher Freilandmuseum Wackershofen”: An open-air museum that displays the life in this region between the 16th and 20th century. Every month, there are special events and workshops. Normal entrance fee for adults: 8€. It’s best reached by car.
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